New York: 20 months, scores of adventures

At the end of this week I will be returning to Ireland after 20 months living in New York City.  I've also decided to retire this blog, which really is a collection (not comprehensive) of some of the journalism work I've done during my time in the Big Apple.


But before I finish, I've decided to list 75 interesting things that I've done in New York while I've been here. Some are big momentous events, others are small things that I derived pleasure from. It's by no means everything I've done, and it's not in any particular order! Enjoy!


1.        Reported live from the celebrations at Ground Zero on the night that Osama Bin Laden was killed by US Forces


2.       Saw Kelsey Grammar (Frasier) in La Cage Aux Folles, Daniel Radcliffe (Harry Potter) in How to Succeed in Business, and indulged my Broadway addiction further by attending Chicago, Avenue Q, Catch Me If You Can, Follies, The Adams Family, Spiderman, and the brilliant Next to Normal.


3.         Been on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange on Wall Street for opening bell during a visit by then Taoiseach Brian Cowen


4.        Attended a taping of The Daily Show with Jon Stewart twice

5.       Was giving a personal tour of the redevelopment at Ground Zero, including signing my name on the steel girders of the new Tower One


6.        Saw at chair being sold for $2m at Christie’s Auction House and attended other high-value auctions - strange experiences!


7.        Watched the Thanksgiving Day Macy’s parade and indulged in turkey dinners, corn bread and all the trimmings!


8.        Cheered on participants, including friends, in the New York Marathon


9.     Attended the recording of New York auditions for America's Got Talent   (concluded it doesn't!)


10.        Met former Irish president Mary Robinson at a UN report launch


11.        Played roulette in the casinos at Atlantic City


12.        Watched New York Rangers play an ice hockey game at Madison Square Garden


13.        Relaxed with a blanket, a book and an ipod on Chelsea Piers on sunny summer afternoons


14.        Attended free lunchtime Broadway performances at Bryant Park during summer months


15.         Brunch at Garage in Greenwich Village with a live jazz band on a Sunday - nice


16.        Took the Staten Island Ferry to see the Statue of Liberty about 40 times


17.        Checked out the Dinosaur bones at the Natural History Museum


18.        Watched the Fourth of July fireworks from my apartment balcony


19.        Frozen Margheritas and the best Mexican food ever at Baby Bo's (34th and 2nd)


20.        Took in free outdoor concerts in Madison Square Park on summer evenings


21.        Walked through Central Park as it changed colours through the year, especially beautiful in October and November


22.       Oysters and champagne lunch at the famous Balthazars restaurant in Soho  

23.        Dressed as a Smurf for Halloween and took part in the one million strong Fancy Dress Parade through the Village


24.        Viewed works by Picasso, Van Gogh and Metisse at the MoMa (Museum of Modern Art)


25.        Walked through the grounds of Harvard University during a trip to Boston


26.        Ate at Mao, an amazing uber-trendy Chinese restaurant that thinks it’s a nightclub. Those who know these kind of things tell me it was in Sex and the City

27.        Attended art exhibition openings at different galleries in Chelsea


28.        Saw Bell X1 play an acoustic gig at La Poussin Rouge in the Village, and six months later rock it out at the Bowery Ballroom

29.        Cheered on the New York Gay Pride parade


30.        Walked the Brooklyn Bridge regularly

31.        Enjoyed receptions at the spectacular residence of the Irish Consul, which used to be owned by singer Luther Vandross.

32.        Relaxed on the beach at Asbury Park, New Jersey


33.        Sang along at a Sound of Music Singalong screening in Chelsea Cinema complete with drag nuns!


34.        Played Ping Pong at an outdoor Sunday market in Chinatown


35.     Relaxed on the High Line Park in Chelsea


36.     Looked out at the city from the Top of the Rock at Rockafeller Plaza


37.     Eaten many Buttermilk fried chicken or tasty burgers at Vinyl in Hell's Kitchen (51 and 9)

38.     Went to see comedienne Lisa Lampanelli at the beautiful Beacon Theatre


39.     Walked Boston's freedom trail during a second visit to the original Tea Party city


40.     Visited American's oldest lighthouse at Sandy Hook beach, New Jersey


41.     Partied at Rockit, Bartini, Industry, Splash, Boxers, Griffin, Ritz, and too many other New York hotspots to list here! Mucho fun.

42.     Attended a taping of The Colbert Report


43.     Saw comedians Louis CK, Jim Gaffigan and Daniel Kitson for free at a comedy night at the tiny Upright Citizens Theatre

44.     Attended a reading by Booker-nominated author Emma Donoghue of her novel "Room" at the Irish Arts Center

45.     Checked out Canadian rockers My Morning Jacket at Terminal Five


46.     Dinner at the upmarket David Burke Townhouse during Restaurant Week


47.     Visited the Irish Famine Memorial in Lower Manhattan


48.     Attended World Premiere of Gay Zombie Porn movie  by Bruce LaBruce at the Mix Queer Arts Festival (don't ask!)

49.     Went to the top of the Empire State Building

50.     Enjoyed Red Velvet Cheesecake and other delights from the renowned Magnolia Bakery
51.    Strolled around the Columbia University campus and surrounding area

52.   Spent a weekend at Wild Wood, New Jersey - lovely seaside resort

53.  Was inside City Hall and met Mayor Michael Bloomberg

54.   Celebs spotted walking down the street include Matthew Perry, Susan Sarandon, Jay Brannan, Zachary Quinto, Jared Leto and Phillip Seymour Hoffman (No i did not ask for pics or autographs)

55.  Went to a taping of The Late Show with David Letterman

56.   Covered the premiere of U2's Spiderman musical from the red carpet - Cindy Crawford, Bobby De Niro, Bill Clinton and others were there.

57.  Visited Washington DC twice, including spotting President Obama on his back lawn on one occasion

58.  Interviewed Christine Quinn, speaker of NYC City council, and one of the favorites to be the next mayor of New York

59.   Watched the NYC St Patrick's Day Parade

60.  Helped produce several broadcasts by The John Murray Show and one from Morning Ireland ex New York, including leading over 100 people on a walk around Central Park

61.  Saw Julie Feeney in concert and interviewed here twice - lovely lady

62.  Protest city! Visited Zucotti Park during Occupy Wall Street protests this year, and the so-called "Ground Zero Mosque" protests last year.

63.  Spotted 30 Rock filming near my house, Glee filming near the Lincoln Center, Gossip Girl at the Meatpacking District and the new Spiderman movie filming in the Flatiron area.

64.  Had a magical night at Other Voices New York with performances from Glen Hansard, Martha Wainwright, Bell X1, The National, Justin Bond, Martin Hayes, Damien Rice, and readings by Paul Durcan, Roddy Doyle, Colum McCann, Joseph O'Connor, Gabriel Byrne and many more.

65.  Spent evenings at Town Council meetings in Greenwich Connecticut and poring over land records to cover developer Sean and Gayle Dunne's dispute with neighbors at their new $2m house there

66.  Attended a performance by Camerata Ireland orchestra at Carnegie Hall

67. Saw an early performance of the new Once musical based on the Irish Oscar winning film, which moves onto Broadway in Spring 2012 (I predict big things for it!)

68.  Interviewed families and friends of victims of 911 as part of my coverage of the 10 year anniversary of the attacks here

69.   Survived the hurricane that never happened, as New York shut down in anticipation of being struck by Hurricane Irene

70.  Took a trip to the Canadian capital of Ottawa and toured its Parliament buildings

71.  Hosted a Eurovision party at my apartment with some bemused US friends and more excitable European ones

72.  Saw Tori Amos concert at the Beacon Theatre

73.  Enjoyed many Irish theater productions on their visits to New York including Mimic, Bogboy, Temporal Powers, John Gabriel Borkman.

74.   Enjoyed a Circle Line ferry Cruise around Manhattan

75.  Attended the US Open tennis championships at Flushing Meadows, and saw Serena Williams win her semi-final.




Postscript:

The list is meant primarily as a record of my time here for my own memory, but I decided to share with you - not to make you jealous, but maybe to inspire you to take an adventure too!

It was January 2010 when I took a two year career break from my job in RTE.

And along with living in Manhattan, I think I should remind myself of some 15 other cool things I did since then:

1.  Visited Rio De Janeiro, although it rained most of the time I was there! My view from the Christ the Redeemer statue was a bit ruined by clouds!

2.  Relaxed on the famous Copacabana and Ipanema beaches.

3.   Island-hopped off the Brazilian coastline at Parati

4.  Camped roadside with new friends on the Kumuka Truck/Bus trip across Brazil

5.  Horse-riding though the Brazilian Pantanals (swampland/jungle)

6.  Wildlife spotting in the Pantanals including alligators, and wild hogs

7.  Fished for piranha in the Brazilian rivers

8.  Snorkelled in the crystal clear waters of Bonito

9. Viewed the spectacular Iguazu Falls from all sides, from the air, and from underneath.

10.  Enjoyed an old-school BBQ in the Uruguayan town of Durazno

11.  Visited Uruguay's capital Montevideo

12.  Ate countless delicious steaks in Argentina

13.  Did my best Evita impressions outside Casa Rosada in Buenos Aires, and visted Eva Peron's grave in the impressive Ricoletta cemeteries

14.  Checked out Diego Maradona's home suburb of La Boca

15.  Took a Tango lesson in Buenos Aires



Here is some final food for thought about my two years.

When I was last in Ireland:

- The IMF were not involved in any way with Ireland's financial affairs

- Gerry Ryan was still alive and hosting his 2fm radio show

- Jedward were best known as a joke act from the X Factor

- Gay civil partnerships were not allowed in Ireland

- Enda Kenny was considered a liability for FG, who were trying to oust him

A lot can happen in two years. Make the most of your time! LIVE THE BEST LIFE YOU CAN!!!

RARE JOYCE AND SHAKESPEARE BOOKS FAIL TO SELL AT NYC AUCTION

A rare first edition copy of James Joyce’s Ulysses has failed to sell at auction in New York despite attracting bids up to $420,000.

And the first ever collection of Shakespeare’s plays published in 1623 – described as the most important book in English literature – was also withdrawn from sale after failing to meet the reserve price.

Both books were in the collection of a private British collector which went under the hammer at Sotheby’s in Manhattan Thursday.

Sotheby’s described the copy of Ulysses as “one of the most important” copies of Joyce’s classic to ever come to public auction.

Bids opened at $260,000 and quickly rose in increments of $20,000 among several bidders.  But interest evaporated once the price rose to $420,000 – shy of the $450,000-$550,000 estimate.  Not only was the first edition signed by Joyce, but the book itself has a fascinating history.

It was originally owned by Sylvia Beach, the American woman who ran the bookshop in Paris which published Ulysses in 1922. She kept a personal copy of the novel, which was signed by the author. During World War II, Beach was forced to close her shop and was interned by the Nazis. Her release was secured by an American living in Paris at the time, Tudor Wilkinson, and as a token of her gratitude, she gave Wilkinson the book as a gift.

Ulysses is one of the most sought after works for rare book collectors. Just one thousand copies of the first edition were printed, and of those, 100 were published on Dutch manuscript paper and signed by the author. The book on sale in New York Thursday was one of those 100. Only around one third of those are in private ownership, which makes them even more valuable.

Two other Joyce books - first editions of Dubliners and A Portrait of an Artist as a Young Man – also went under the hammer at last night’s auction in New York and also failed to reach their asking prices of $150,000 and $40,000 respectively. Just two Joyce works from the collection sold – a first English edition of Ulysses from 1936 and Collected Poems (1936) went for $6,000 and $17,500 respectively.

But Joyce’s Ulysses was not alone in not selling.

A first folio of Shakespeare plays from 1623 – considered the most important book in English literature and, along with the King James Bible published a few years earlier, one of the two greatest books of the English language – also failed to meet its reserve price of $600,000.

Experts say without the publication of this folio after Shakespeare’s death, 18 of his plays including Macbeth, Julius Caesar, A Comedy of Errors, As You Like It, The Tempest, Henry VIII, Twelfth Night and others, would have been lost forever.

Of the 750 copies made, only 220 are known to exist. This copy attracted bids of up to $550,000 before being withdrawn.

A third folio of Shakespeare plays published in 1664 did sell at Sotheby’s for $542,500. That collection is considered the rarest of the 17^th century editions of Shakespeare, as a large number of copies were destroyed in the Great Fire of London of 1666.

Is it all over for David Norris?

David Norris’s presidential campaign is dead in the water according to two separate opinion polls published in the past 24 hours.

Red C has him on 14%, fourth in the race.

Ipsos/MRBI puts him fifth, with just 11%.

For someone who held the lead in several polls during the summer, it’s a disaster.

And while Sean Gallagher has gained the momentum at a crucial time, Norris is going in the opposite direction.

The controversies over the clemency letters have dragged him down, and he needs a minor miracle to recover.

If you were in his campaign team, what move would you make right now to try to turn it around?

Here are a few ideas I had:

The only glimmer of hope in the polls for Norris is that when Red C asked the public, which of the candidates they would most like to invite over for dinner, he topped the poll (19pc). This shows that there remains a personal regard for Norris – many people still like him, despite all the controversies, they just can’t see him as president.  So the task for Norris is to get those people, who still like him, to believe again that he’d make a good president.

1 – High Profile Endorsements

He needs a series of high profile endorsements from people who are widely respected by the Irish public. People who could say, ‘I know David, I’ve seen what he’s done for Ireland, and I think he’s someone we could trust and be proud of as president’.  The name Mary Robinson comes to mind, given that she worked alongside him for years as they fought for the decriminalization of homosexuality. But obviously, as a former president, there is no way she can do it. But he needs people of that calibre. (Any ideas for who?) A series of endorsements could help change the narrative, because if someone like, say Colm O’Gorman, could come out and say they accept his regret over the letters, then maybe he can move past the issue.

2 – Play Up the Gay

I’ve argued before that rather than being a hindrance to him, the fact that he is gay is one of his strongest assets. He needs to raise the issue: “Is Ireland ready for a gay president?” If he can make that question a central part of the election, he will do better. Because I think the answer for a lot of the population is yes. Certainly, among those who could be persuaded to vote for him. A vote for him, is a vote for Ireland’s first gay president, a vote for something that would make history, a vote that would tell the world Ireland is out from under the yoke of Catholicism – that’s something that people could get behind. It’s also a subject that he’s on solid ground with, and that he can get passionate about.

3 – Anti-establishment credentials

He should be releasing collections of quotes and clips from speeches he has made in the Seanad over the years that show how often he was vocal in his opposition to policies that everyone now agrees were wrong. He voted against the bank guarantee, he opposed the war in Iraq – he needs to remind people that he has been on the right side of many of the big issues over the past two decades.

4 – Tone it down in media interviews

I know fans of the West Wing would argue that we need to just “let Norris be Norris” but his media appearances over the past week were awful. He needs to stop shouting, he needs to know when to pick his interjections and when to shut up. His attempts at playing the “everyman” are cringe-worthy. We all know he’s not a regular guy – he’s the colorful scholar of Joyce with a plummy accent and high intelligence. Less pomp, more realism.

5 – Courting transfers

We all know whoever wins such a crowded field is going to need to be strong on winning transfers from other candidates. Michael D and Sean Gallagher understood this when they facilitated Norris. Gallagher’s popular stunts on posters and letters are resonating, because they are common sense – even though they are nothing to do with presidency itself, but others should be jumping on board. I was surprised how small Norris’s transfers were from the likes of Mary Davis. It’s time for Norris to start looking for number 2s, especially from those candidates who are behind him, or very close to him in the polls. (He’d get a lot from Michael D and McGuinness, but he needs to get ahead of them before elimination so not much use)

None of these might be enough to stem the tide at this stage. The letters issue has been hugely damaging. His prepared legal statement at the official launch yesterday was his best attempt to deal with it, but really it was far too late having spent a week and a half faffing about on the issue. At this stage, when it comes to the letters, all he can say is that although people are interested in what’s in them, and the media are of course dying to find out what juice is in there, it’s not necessarily the same thing as the public interest. He has his legal advice, and either people believe that he’s following that or they believe he’s lying about it. He could challenge the other candidates to say whether or not they believe he’s lying about it. The letters are what they are – a plea for clemency for someone close to him after he’d been convicted, not an attempt to stop the conviction. I'm sure he regrets ever writing them now. But most people accept that, in his position, they too might have written for mercy for someone they loved. The problem is the defensiveness he's exuded in the past week. It looks like he's hiding something, a howler as Vincent Browne put it. Norris himself has never done anything to harm anyone, after all.  

But controversy is toxic to an Irish presidential race. Whether it's Mary Davis and the boards, or Norris and the letters, if enough of a fuss is created about them, then people will just go for the safe pair of hands, with none of the crap flying about. And who could blame them? We all know that even Norris is giving his number two to Michael D.

700 arrested on Brooklyn Bridge - Occupy Wall St protest

700 people were arrested Saturday evening on the Brooklyn Bridge - they were taking part in a demonstration called Occupy Wall Street.

Inspired by the Arab Spring, the movement aims to give a voice to the 99% of the population in America, against the 1% that controls most of the wealth.

The arrests, along with an over zealous use of pepper spray by police a week earlier and the endorsement of high profile figures like Michael Moore and Susan Sarandon, have brought the demonstration to international attention.

I talked about it with RTE's Morning Ireland - you'll find the report at the link below.

http://www.rte.ie/news/2011/1003/morningireland.html

DSK seeks diplomatic immunity in civil case brought by hotel maid

Former IMF chief Dominque Strass-Kahn is seeking to have the civil case against him by a hotel maid who accuses him of sexual assault at a New York hotel in May dismissed.

The former front-runner in the French presidential election is claiming diplomatic immunity from civil litigation.

You'll find my report on the developments for RTE Radio 1's Morning Ireland at the link below.

http://www.rte.ie/news/2011/0927/morningireland.html

GILMORE PLEDGES IRELAND’S “FULL SUPPORT” FOR PALESTINE’S UN BID

Palestine’s bid for membership of the United Nations is “entirely legitimate and understandable”, Tanaiste and Minister for Foreign Affairs Eamon Gilmore told the UN General Assembly in New York. 

Mr Gilmore said Palestine had “the same right to membership of the United Nations as Ireland, or any other Member of the organization”, a remark that prompted applause from sections of the chamber. He promised Ireland’s “full support” in any vote on a proposal to admit Palestine as a member, or as an interim step, to give Palestine non-member observer status.

Mr Gilmore also held separate meetings yesterday with UN Secretary General Ban Ki-Moon, and the Palestinian Foreign Minister Riyad al-Malki. The UN Security Council has begun consultations on the application by Palestinian leader Mahmoud Abbas. But the United States has threatened to veto the bid, even if Palestinians get the support of the required nine of the 15 members.

In his address to the Assembly, Mr Gilmore said that membership of the UN would not change the situation on the ground, or remove “the compelling need for negotiations”. But he said recognition of Palestinian statehood would “give dignity and support to the Palestinian people who have suffered for far too long”.

He called on Israel to halt all settlement expansion, and to end the blockade of Gaza by opening up land crossings to normal commercial, human and humanitarian crossings.

Elsewhere in his speech, Mr Gilmore praised the Arab Spring uprisings in North Africa and the Middle East as inspiring and historic. “We must ensure that the democratic changes underway are consolidated,” he said, “And that the promise of profound improvements in human rights in the countries concerned, particularly in relation to the role of women, is fully realized.”

He pledged Ireland’s support for the National Transition Council in Libya. But he expressed concern about the situation in Syria and warned President Assad that “no leader who refuses to listen to what his people are saying…can expect to remain in power.”

Mr Gilmore outlined Ireland’s determination to fighting world hunger, and said the government remained committed to achieving the UN target of providing 0.7% of GNP in Official Development Assistance. He said the international community had a moral obligation to act in the face of suffering in the Horn of Africa.

The Tanaiste also defended the United Nations itself, in the face of criticism from some countries. He said no other organization had the same global impact and legitimacy. “Ireland is deeply committed to the United Nations,” he said, “The UN is the embodiment of freedom and equality. It is a bulwark defending these core human values in a changing and uncertain world.” He said Ireland was strongly supportive of the UN’s role in peacekeeping and conflict resolution, pointing out that a 440-strong battalion from the Irish Defence Forces had recently returned to Lebanon.

GILMORE PRESENTS FIRST CERTIFICATE OF IRISH HERITAGE IN NEW YORK

The first ever Certificate of Irish Heritage has been awarded posthumously to an Irish American firefighter who died on Nine Eleven at a ceremony in New York.

Tanaiste Eamon Gilmore presented the certificate to Mrs Bridget Hunter, mother of Joe Hunter, at fire house in Maspeth, Queens where he worked.

“It’s definitely going to hang! Are you kidding me?!” said Mrs Hunter, when asked what she would be doing with the framed certificate. “It’s going to be right in front of everybody when they walk into my house.”

Mrs Hunter emigrated from Recess, Co Galway in 1958. Her son Joe was last seen walking into the south Tower of the World Trade Center on September 11^th, 2001 to help people escape.

The story of Joe Hunter first came to public attention, when it was featured in an RTE Radio documentary “Still Waiting for Joe” broadcast at the end of August. The Department of Foreign Affairs approached the family to see if they would like to receive the honour of getting the first certificate.

“(Joe) ended up losing his life in the Twin Towers, attempting to save the lives of others, and attempting to ease the suffering that was taking place on that occasion,” said Mr Gilmore. “I don’t think there is anybody more fitting to get the first Certificate of Irish Heritage than somebody who made such a sacrifice.”

He said Ireland was proud of the sacrifice made by all Irish-American firefighters on that day. Monday night’s presentation was attended by the Chief of the Fire Department of New York Ed Kilduff, who said it was “an extraordinary honour” to have one of its own singled out to receive the first certificate. He said photographs from the event will be distributed to the large contingent of Irish Americans in the Fire Department, to show that “the Irish government, by coming here to this location, is really expressing their appreciation to all firefighters”.

The event was also attended by FDNY chaplain Chris Keenan, Ireland’s ambassador to the US Michael Collins, Irish Consul-General in New York Noel Kilkenny and members of the Hunter family.

Joe Hunter was a quiet and reserved guy, according to his brother Sean. “He actually would have been embarrassed by all this attention, but he would be really honored too” he said. Joe’s sister Teresa said her late brother was fiercely proud of his Irish heritage. “He had an Irish shamrock on his racing helmet, he had an Irish shamrock on his car, he had an Irish shamrock everywhere. So this is a tremendous honor,” she said. “We have such a large family here. My mom is one of 14, and we have about 50 first cousins, who are scattered all over here. Not just for our family, but also our friends, this is overwhelming. It’s hard to put into words, being the first of something that’s going to be now carried on for years to come in Ireland, America and the whole world.”

The framed certificate contains a quote from the Irish constitution which says “The Irish nation cherishes its special affinity with people of Irish ancestry living abroad who share its cultural identity and heritage.” The inscription is on a colour background featuring Edwin Hayes’ 1953 painting of “An Emigrant Ship, Dublin Bay, Sunset”, one of three designs applicants for the new certificates will be able to choose from. The scheme to provide Certificates to Irish diaspora around the world will be formally launched next month at Dublin Castle during the upcoming Global Irish Economic Forum. It’s expected that former US President Bill Clinton will be presented with the second Certificate of Irish Heritage at that event.

The idea for the certificates originated more than two years ago and received support at the last Forum in Farmleigh in 2009. FEXCO, a company based in Killorglin, Co Kerry has been awarded the contract to manage applications and issue certificates. A website, www.heritagecertificate.ie, will go live at the end of this month, with applications being accepted after its formal launch in October. Each cert will cost €40 and applications are open only to people who were not born on the island of Ireland. Those who wish to obtain one will be asked to provide documentary evidence connecting them to a specific Irish ancestor.

Documents including birth certs, death certs, marriage certs, land records, ship manifestos, census records or other immigration documents will be acceptable. The requirements may develop over time, if necessary, to include the option of swearing a legal affidavit proving Irish heritage, where no records exist due to the passage of time.

Mr Gilmore said the document will have no legal, political, economic or commercial benefit, but was about officially recognizing someone’s connection to Ireland. “One of the things that we have been hearing from people of Irish descent is that they want to have some formal acknowledgment of their Irish heritage, something to hang on the wall that says officially that they are Irish,” he said.

At current estimates, over 70 million people worldwide claim Irish ancestry.  Mr Gilmore said there was no way of knowing what demand will be like for the certificates once they are launched, but suspects that it’s an idea that will grow over time. The certificates will be actively promoted through embassies and consulates, and through Irish-American organisations in the US.

Nine Eleven memories linger for Irish in New York

Even now, a decade on, Honor Molloy won't look at pictures or films
about the 9/11 attacks.

"I just don't," she says, "I want my own memories of it."

The Dublin-born playwright, who moved to the US in 1969, was living in
the shadows of the Twin Towers in 2001 - just three blocks north on
Greenwich Street.

She can recall going for a jog that morning, passing the flow of people
coming off ferries and out of subways on their way to work in the World
Trade Centre.

Many of them would never go home.

She was in the elevator of her building when the first plane struck, but
was out in the street with her partner and neighbours as the second
tower was hit.

"It was an explosion of orange. It was insane." she recalls.

"There was no frame to this experience. This was not a TV show. Time
compressed and expanded. There was no end. There was no narrative. I
remember the fear."

An overheard conversation sticks out in her mind - between a young
mother and her five year old child.

The boy pointed up and said: 'Somebody jumped'.

The mother said, 'No they didn't. It's just glass'.

Then, later when people were jumping, the boy said: 'Those buildings
could fall'.

The mother looked at her son, and reassured him: 'No they couldn't."

Like everyone else in Lower Manhattan that day, Honor was evacuated from
her home.

She remembers returning to the street where she lived the next day.

"It was like Dinosaur World. I mean, the cars were all burnt. There were
grey carcasses of cars, hundreds of them, lining Church St with ash all
over them."

Soon it became clear that they had lost people in their neighborhood,
and she noticed the loss in peculiar ways.

The normally-busy gym on her street was emptier, for example.

She plans to leave New York for the anniversary - she's going to
Pennsylvania for the weekend.

"It just hurts too much still," she says, "I can't stand sentiment."

"I don't talk about this with people. This is not something that I open
up about."

Maurice Landers, director of Failte 32, which helps new Irish immigrants
to the US, was working in Midtown when the Towers collapsed.

His first instinct, like many others, was to make his way downtown to
see if he could help.

"They were organizing volunteers, next to the courthouses, to go on
buses into the site to tend to the wounded," says Landers.

"They gave us cloths to wrap around any wounds, gave us face masks and
gloves.

"I went on one of the buses which drove through the plume of smoke that
covered the area but by the time we arrived near the site, the Army
Reserves were directing everyone away from the area.

"They knew the third building was going to fall, and were not going to
put untrained volunteers in amongst the rubble."

By then it was clear there would be few survivors.

"It was ominous to see one medical centre that had prepared for the
arrival of the wounded by erecting a canopy outside the main entrance,
housing empty stretchers and other medical equipment.

"Staff were just waiting in hope to treat people but probably realized
that no one was coming at that stage. A sad day."
Prominent Irish-American radio host Adrian Flannelly had just finished a
broadcast when news broke that the terrorists had struck.

His thoughts immediately turned to his two daughters who worked in Lower
Manhattan.

One, Eileen, had phoned him moments earlier.

She had been on a bus, about four blocks from the Twin Towers, when the
impact of the first plane knocked the vehicle on its side.

At the time, Flannelly was unaware of how serious the attacks were, and
thought his daughter was just being a drama queen.

Now, he realized the enormity of what was unfolding.

It would be 36 hours before he heard from Eileen again, and a full three
days before he made contact with his other daughter Kathleen who worked
in the area to confirm she was safe.

"It was horrific. It was awful," he says, "The uncertainty of it all."

"Take the scene: no subway, no buses, the city in lockdown. No
communications. Cellphones down. There were people who didn't hear from
their kids for ten days. This was not unusual."

Flannelly was working as an Irish community liaison officer for New
York's mayor Rudy Giuliani at the time.

In the days the followed, it soon emerged that the cops, fireman and
other first responders who died were predominantly Irish-American.

"It seemed as each day went by that it was a woefully lob-sided
percentage of the fatalities," he said.

"We still know many people who were injured, some of them quite
severely. I don't think history will even record it. Those that were
merely hurt didn't even count."
Flannelly has been in the US since 1959, and says Nine Eleven has
changed the country.

Americans feel less safe.

"That's never coming back," he says.

LADDER 3 FIREFIGHTERS REMEMBER THEIR FALLEN HEROES

In the days that followed, those that were left at Ladder Three fire house in New York’s East Village kept searching through the rubble at the World Trade Centre.

“We kept looking. We kept going back. You wanted to find them, but in the back of your mind, you knew it wasn’t good. But you had to go down there and exhaust all possibilities,” says Jimmy Wind, one of a handful of the firefighters still working at Ladder Three ten years on.

The company lost 12 fire fighters that day – wiping out over a third of the entire staff there.

The men who died left 16 children behind.

It was a story repeated in Fire Stations across New York – 343 fire fighters in all lost their lives that day.

“You had to face it, as much as you wanted them, you were coming to the realization that you weren’t finding anybody after the first day or so,” says Wind.

In the following weeks, returning to the scene became counter-productive.

“It was hard between funerals and working a schedule. Guys were getting depressed going down there,” says Wind.

Mike Moran, another Ladder Three fire-fighter, lost his older brother John, who was a fire chief at Special Operations Command when the Twin Towers collapsed.

“We never found any part of his body. Maybe three or four days went by, and you were kind of hoping.

“You were hearing reports that people were trapped. But other than that first night, they didn’t get anybody out alive.”

And Moran was there working on the rescue line for days, despite his loss of family, friends and colleagues.

In the wake of the attacks, firefighters became heroes in the city.

The dangers of the job, taken for granted before, were now appreciated.

Ten years later, while the 343 Fallen are still honored, the city has returned to its old patterns.

“It was different in New York after Nine Eleven. There was not as much traffic but it seemed like any traffic that was on the streets, when you responded they pulled over and stopped. But now it’s kinda back to the rat race,” said Wind.

“I still miss all the guys, not only from my house, but from others. It was hard for all of them. Everybody lost people.”
Mike Moran became a folk hero among his fellow fire fighters in the weeks after Nine Eleven.
At a tribute concert in Madison Square Garden, Moran took the microphone and told Osama Bin Laden to “kiss my royal Irish ass”.

The audience – mostly cops and fire fighters – went wild.
“I was thinking to myself, if they let me say something, I’m not going to say anything nice,” he recalls. 


“I was in the mood for a battle”

“I think people were a looking for a little anger.”

The concert took place on the day of the funeral for his colleague Michael Carroll – who drove the fire truck from Ladder Three down to the World Trade Centre on the morning of the attacks.

Carroll had relieved Moran at six the night before.

“We shot the breeze for a little while. That was the last time I saw him,” he said.

He says he feels “a little silly sometimes” now when he thinks back on his moment in the spotlight, but it felt right at the time.

When Osama Bin Laden was killed by US Special Forces in May, Moran admits he was stunned.

“I always thought it would be one of those mysteries that you might never know if he was dead or alive,” he said.

That night he raised a new flag at this brother’s memorial close to his Rockaway home and admits to become “a little misty-eyed”.

Both Wind and Moran will attend a ceremony at the Ladder Three firehouse on Sunday in honour of their former colleagues.

Neither they nor any rank-and-file firefighters or policemen have been invited to Ground Zero for the anniversary.

It’s something that upsets Jimmy Wind.

“It seems like it’s a photo op for the president. I don’t know where he was on that day, but I know where I was, and I know where the rest of my guys were,” he said.

9/11 and the Forgotten Tragedy of Belle Harbor

It is often forgotten that just two months after the 9/11 attacks one suburb of New York was visited again by devastating tragedy.

Residents of the Irish-American suburb of Belle Harbor in Queens had just buried the last of 12 residents killed in the 9/11 attacks, when a plane carrying nearly 300 passengers crashed there, just after takeoff from JFK Airport on 12 November.

All on board were killed.

The suburb is home to many fire-fighters, who had been at Ground Zero just after the attack. They now found themselves battling with death and disaster on their own doorsteps.

I went to Belle Harbor ten years on for RTE's News at One to see how the community is coping.

http://www.rte.ie/news/2011/0909/belleharbor.html

Eric Foner: How will history judge America's reaction to Nine Eleven

For Morning Ireland, Eminent historian Eric Foner, professor at Columbia University and current holder of the Pullitzer Prize for History, talked to me about what has changed in the past 10 years for the US, and what history might make of he reaction of the Bush and Obama administration. (Hint: neither comes out well!)

http://www.rte.ie/news/2011/0909/morningireland.html

At Ground Zero, a new World Trade Center begins to take shape

On Sunday next, New York will reclaim a patch of land from history.

For ten years, a high perimeter fence has blocked Ground Zero from public view, but now the first piece of the re-imagined World Trade Center is set to be unveiled. The fences will move, and a permanent 9/11 Memorial Plaza will become a part of Lower Manhattan’s landscape.

In the footprints of where the Twin Towers once stood, two giant reflecting pools have been carved out of the ground. When water starts cascading down their granite sides next week, they will be the biggest man-made waterfalls on the planet.

One of the pools with museum behind

Called “Reflecting Absence”, Michael Ared’s design strikes the right tone. At once, it conveys the scale of what was lost when planes smashed into the iconic buildings a decade ago, and offers a dignified nod to the thousands who died.

Towers will rise around them, and thousands of people will once again call the World Trade Center their workplace. But not here – not on the exact spot where the old towers stood and so many perished.

Around the edges of the pools, carved in bronze are the names of all the victims of the Nine Eleven attacks – not just those in New York, but in Washington and Pennsylvania too.

“What we hope is that the families who lost so much – husbands, wives, kids – walk out in the Plaza next week, will say that we did our job with dignity, humility and honouring the people we lost,” said Bill Baroni, as he took me on a tour of the site last week.

With Bill Baroni on site last week

Baroni is deputy executive director of the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, which is responsible for the rebuilding effort. The former New Jersey Senator, who holds dual Irish and US citizenship, is keenly aware of how important it is to get the memorial finished in time for the 10^th anniversary.

“We are doing something unique for history and all of us know that,” he said. “The pressure to make sure we finished this on time was extraordinary. The entire world is watching to see if we do our job and open this memorial on time.”

And open on time it will.  More than two hundred oak trees line the Plaza – when the entire complex is completed, there will be over 400. In amongst them stands a powerful symbol of resilience - the Survivor Tree, found in the rubble in 2001, and nursed back to health since. It was here, in May, that President Obama laid a wreath after Osama Bin Laden was killed by US Special Forces.

In order to finish the plaza on time, engineers and construction workers have turned building logic on its head. Instead of building from the ground up which would have taken years, they’ve started building at the top. The Plaza is, in fact, a roof for the 9/11 Memorial Museum which will open next year.

It’s just one of the many engineering marvels that make the World Trade Center rebuilding, one of the most complex and fascinating construction projects ever.

....

Eighty feet underground Bill Baroni points to some exposed stone.

“One question I often get asked when I show people around is ‘Where exactly is Ground Zero?’ he says. “That is Ground Zero,” he says pointing to the exposed stone “That is the original bedrock of the South Tower.” 

Original steel bolts which were attached to the steel tridents of the old tower are visible in the bedrock, and above it the concrete foundation of the old building. From here those mighty towers stretched skywards. And down onto here and above where we now stood they tumbled to ruins.

 “It’s impossible to come down here and not realize the gravity of what we’re doing,” says Baroni. “It’s hard, you know. Three thousand people died on 9/11. More than a thousand victims have never been identified – no remains have ever been found. For those families, indeed for all families, this truly is a sacred final resting place.”

....

The 9/11 National Museum will not be open until September 12^th, 2011 but already the shape and layout are clear. A beautiful glass building, shimmering and reflecting the light around it, rises no higher above the ground than the oak trees beside its entrance. But inside, it stretches down three levels, most of which are still under construction. 

Tridents on original Towers

Several weeks ago, the Museum moved some of the many large precious artefacts that it will house into place. The first thing that will greet visitors are two giant steel tridents –unmistakable as the ground level facade of the Twin Towers. Other remnants that survived intact among the rubble have also been brought from storage to be exhibited – for example, the concrete stairs down which thousands ran to safety before the North Tower fell. All are covered for protection as construction continues apace around them.

Drawing back the parapet on one, I’m confronted with huge piece of gnarled steel, twisted and bent out of shape. Impact steel, Barino tells me, from the part of the building where the plane struck.

....

When the families of victims are given access to the Memorial Plaza on Sunday, one of the first things they’re sure to do is search for the names of their loved ones among the thousands of others cast in bronze around the reflecting pool. For the first time, here they will find a permanent memorial in their honor at the place of their death.

But once the tenth anniversary passes, access to the Memorial Plaza will be open to everyone. 1,500 people an hour are expected to come. While tickets are free, visitors have to pre-book a time and date on www.911memorial.org.

All around the plaza, construction work will continue – the swarming visitors just another complication for workers well used to navigating the particular nature of this complex project. Every day, 75,000 commuters use the PATH train station located on the site – the busiest in the entire system. And since the beginning, the 1 Subway train has run through the site in a specially constructed shell. The work continues around it. On the 16 acre-site, 3,500 construction workers are active around the clock, among them scores of Irish.

....

On September 11, 2001, Willie O’Donnell from Listowel, Co Kerry was working on nearby Canal Street and he witnessed the two towers crumbling with his own eyes. In Midtown, Jimmy O’Sullivan from Dunmanway in Cork was working on the 30^th floor of a new high rise, when a colleague remarked to him that something was wrong when a plane passed unusually low above their heads. Together they watched the first plane fly over Manhattan and into the tall building at the other end of the island.

Some of the Irish builders at Ground Zero

Over in Queens, Mike Carmody from Tarbert, Co Kerry was also working on a high rise, and had clear view of the East side of Manhattan. He remembers the second plane performing a “semi U-turn” as it smashed into the skyscraper. Little did the three men know back then, that ten years later they would be working to help the World Trade Center rise out of the ground again.

All three now work at Ground Zero for Navillus, a Kerry company, responsible for much of the concrete work on the new Plaza. “It’s definitely a privilege to work here,” Willie O’Donnell tells me. “The day you start working here, you remember Nine Eleven, where you were and everything. But then you get over it after a while and you just work away – just a regular pain in the ass job!”

“It’s great to involved,” said Jimmy O’Sullivan, “It’s something that you would be honoured to be involved in. I’ll never forget that plane, and I’ll never forget that gentleman that stood beside me and said ‘There’s something wrong’ - that’ll stay with me forever.”

Mike Carmody agreed that it was “an unbelievable feeling” to be working at Ground Zero. “It’s a great honour to be working down here. Soon you get over that, and it just becomes a big project and a lot of headaches and a lot of schedules to meet.”

Another two Irish men I meet on site, work on health and safety, for Bovis, the general contractor for the Plaza and museum project. Michael Deere, from Pallasgreen in Co Limerick has been here for five months. “We’re here on the Memorial Plaza, so all the pressure was on us for the last couple of months to get it completed on time. There’s been massive progress in the last six weeks or so. Six weeks ago, you wouldn’t have thought it would ever open on time.”

Niall Marshall from Birr, Co Offaly, is also proud to be involved. “A lot of American people look at this as something great - a rebuilding that’s going to bring everyone back together, to see this coming out of the ground again. Obviously, it’s a good feeling to come in here every day and to know that you’ve something to do with it.”

....

Tower 1 rising high

From the unfinished 72^nd floor of World Trade Center Tower 1, formerly known as Freedom Tower, the view of New York is spectacular in all directions. The Statue of Liberty looks the size of a Lego piece from up here, and you’re already at eye level with the Empire State Building uptown. WTC 1 is already the tallest building in Manhattan, Baroni tells me, and when it’s finished you will be able to see the Earth’s curve from its top. The tower, when completed, will be 1776 feet tall, a height chosen because of its significance in US history (Independence), and also higher than the original towers were.

Any fears that people might not want to work here seem to have been dispelled by the recent announcement that publishing giant Conde Nast will take one million square feet of the new property. The Federal Government and a Chinese bank are also signed on as early tenants. Conscious that, like all other iconic buildings in New York, the tower could become a target again once it’s built, the safety measures being taken are setting new records. Each foot of steel used weighs 3,000lbs, and the concrete is 14,000lbs per square inch, seven times thicker than the concrete used in building sidewalks. “It’s designed to be stronger than any office building ever built,” said Baroni.

Signing the frame of Tower 1

As I stand on scaffolding outside where the windows of the 72^nd floor are going to be installed, Bill Barino calls me back in. He hands me a white marker pen and asks me to sign a steel girder on the north side of the tower. So I write: “Vincent Murphy 01/11/11” – my signature forever etched on the interior of this historic building. “This will be someone’s office one day,” Baroni smiles, “You can tell them your name is written there.”

....

As I exit the complex, I take one last look around in an attempt to take in the scale and meaning of what I see. Most of Ground Zero is a construction site still and will be for years.

It’s a workplace and will be long after it’s done.

It’s also a commuter hub.

A PATH train pulls in as I leave, and hundreds of commuters swarm around me. Building has only just begun on the Transportation Hub that will rise here – a spectacular design by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrave, who was responsible for the Samuel Becket Bridge in Dublin. “It will be a downtown Grand Central,” Baroni claims.

It’s a tourist destination – all around the perimeter people arch their necks to see Tower 1, or take pictures of themselves at a place which is part of history – and that’s only likely to grow.

But it’s also a burial place.

And it’s a memorial.

And on Sunday, as families gather here to remember, and the perimeter fence is taken down around the new Plaza, the reincarnation and reclaiming of the World Trade Center site will send its own message to the terrorists who came here to destroy ten years ago.

What new WTC will look like when complete